From Beginnings: First Adventure—Peru

 

January 2014

As the plane landed in Lima at 11:30 pm, I was so nervous that I wanted the plane to turn around and return to the Houston airport. I said to myself, “Well, there’s no backing out now!” Getting through immigration and customs turned out to be a breeze. A very cute young man saw me through immigration. I told him that I would be here until May 5. He insisted on giving me a five-month visa. “Just in case…Welcome to Peru!”

But…

Then I had to find a place to sleep in the airport. I did not want to try to figure out where to stay over just one night when I would be leaving Lima immediately the next day. Besides, I was truly terrified to leave the airport in the middle of the night. 

Outside the concourses there were no seats. I found a place where other travelers were awaiting flights the next day and we all slept together on the floor. About 2:30 am, we were unceremoniously moved by the floor cleaners.

The next morning, after having flown for seven hours and waited ten hours on the airport floors, I hired a taxi to take me to the bus station. The taxi fare was ungodly expensive for Peru—80 soles—about $30! (I now know that the driver took advantage of an ignorant tourist.) Once we were in traffic, I treated it as a carnival ride and marveled at all the drivers’ abilities to create a 4-lane road from a 3-lane one and never run into each other. (Horns being an essential tool for the task.)

Waiting in the hot and humid bus terminal for several more hours, I noticed that at least three people were constantly sweeping/mopping the floors. These Peruvians—they like their floors clean! Once I was finally on the bus, I was so glad I had splurged and gotten a first-class ticket (only $55 for the 16-hour ride to Arequipa). The bus seat was plush and leaned all the way back, and the cabin was quiet with large windows to see outside. The windows did not matter. I could no longer hold my eyes open.

We reached Arequipa at 7:00 am. I was exhausted. My gracious host, Manuel, met me at the station to make sure I got safely to his house. The taxi to his home was FIVE soles (about $2). Hmmmm… 

Manuel and Adela welcomed me with breakfast on the table starting with fresh mango. I knew I would like it here.

Adela's Breakfast Table. Manuel at back of table; Adela on the right.
Adela and Manuel's home was my first AirBnb stay. They have become good friends. 

 

The following day, when I was ready to go out, I found myself procrastinating. I knew that I had to at least stretch my legs and walk around the neighborhood a bit. I kept thinking about the character Jean Ainsley in the movie, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. She was so frozen with culture shock in India that she would never leave the hotel. I told myself, “I am NOT that woman!” So, off I went to at least walk around the block, and THEN I would decide what to do. (Baby steps.) 

I walked several blocks and remembered that if I was going to be out in the near-equatorial sun at 7600 feet, I should get sunscreen. So, I returned and put some on my arms, grabbed my water bottle, camera, some money, and small notebook.  Adela had told me about a park nearby. I thought, “I can walk over there, at least.” I walked through the gate and sat for a bit in the tranquil landscape writing in my journal and trying to decide what to do next.

The requirement to feed our bodies can be quite an inducement for action, so I took a deep breath and started out for the city center.

Walking toward the Plaza de Armas, I perused menus on the street for a wide variety of eateries–many of which I was hesitant to enter. Of course, as you get within a block of the touristy Plaza de Armas, you find the ubiquitous KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, McDonalds, and Starbucks. Those were way off my list of places to eat!

Then I found one that looked promising, and because a cute, smiling young woman was encouraging folks to come in, and because the price on the sandwich sign was right. I decided to give it a try. It was the right decision.

In most Spanish-speaking countries, the menu del dia (daily menu) is typically offered for the mid-day meal. With it, you are given a choice of first and second courses from a list, a drink, and a small dessert.

I chose the palta relleno (stuffed avocado salad.) This turned out to be a kind of chicken salad with peas on top of the avocado with a side of corn nuts. Pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken breast) was the main course.  The included refresco (soft drink) was chica morada, a Peruvian non-alcoholic drink made with purple corn.

 

First menu del dia in Peru--but not the last!

I had had plenty to eat, but just as I finished my last bite, Leo, my waiter brought me a small postre (dessert) of sliced bananas. Perfect!

The bill? 8 soles or about $2.80–including tax and no tip. (2014 prices)

I know it seems crazy, but upon leaving the restaurant, I felt so good, and proud of myself for accomplishing such a simple task as deciding on a restaurant and ordering a meal. I walked down the street almost in tears at the prospect that I was really going to enjoy being in Peru! It is amazing what a decent meal and taking a small empowering action can do for your soul.

Only two weeks later I was comfortable enough with my environment that I made an excursion alone to Puno and Chucuito to enjoy the Festival of Candelaria. I did the research and made all the plans on my own. I had become more confident and overcame my fears in two short weeks!

***

I turned sixty years old while in Peru that year. Sprinkled through upcoming chapters are stories of how Peru helped to shape me into a confident, independent traveler. 

My life was forever changed.